Pamelia and I are taking several trips over the next few months to visit naturalists, scientists and artists with whom we either already collaborate or would like to work. We left Maine this week for the first of those journeys. Here's a glimpse of the opening days of what will be a three-week trip that will take us to a total of four states as well as England and Scotland (for a family vacation):
CONCORD, NEW HAMPSHIRE
We arrived in early evening after a beautiful drive south through the slanting fall sunshine. There is something distinctive about autumn light. The Sun is lower in the sky and closer to the Earth than in summer. Perhaps that's why the roadside fields glowed an especially bright yellow-green. Maybe the sunlight was illuminating the grass from behind, like stained glass.
Concord has an old, quaint downtown centered on the State House building. As we walked its streets in search of a dinner spot, we felt as though we'd gone back in time a few decades. There was even a record store still in operation. We had never been to this Concord, as opposed to the Concord in Massachusetts, the one of Lexington-and-Concord fame. I wondered how the two cities got their names. I learned that Concord, N.H., was originally called Rumford until the governor renamed it Concord (as in the word meaning harmony and agreement) to symbolize the end of a nasty boundary dispute between it and a neighboring town. The naming of the other Concord is uncertain, though it too probably arose from some sense of peaceful accord involved in its settling. This much is certain: The Concord grape is so named because it was developed by Ephraim Wales Bull in Concord, Mass.
Pamelia and I ended up venturing into Concord's former police station, which has been converted into a Mexican restaurant. And thus, in our only night in New Hampshire's capital, we ate our fish tacos and skillet enchiladas while sitting in a onetime jail cell.
We were up early the next day for a 7 a.m. appointment at the 1790 home of David Carroll, the renowned naturalist-writer-artist and 2006 recipient of a MacArthur fellowship, the so-called genius grant that is bestowed upon a small number of extraordinary Americans each year. Besides being a gifted painter, David is among the world's foremost experts on freshwater turtles, and is a lyrical and observant writer. His wife, Laurette, is a talented painter as well, and the two of them welcomed us for a "quick" visit that lasted five hours.